The Food Scene
Three Plays on the Pancake
A masa-based version at Hellbender, a riff on soufflé at Pitt’s, and a modern-classic stack at S&P Lunch.
By Helen Rosner
A Young Parisian Chef’s Nouvelle Stodginess
At Le Chêne, in the West Village, a “Top Chef France” alumna cooks up chilly Gallic chicness.
By Helen Rosner
Next-Level Vietnamese at Bánh Anh Em
The new restaurant, near Union Square, offers hard-to-find regional dishes. But you’ll have to wait in line.
By Helen Rosner
A Thrilling Italian American Joint Points Backward and Forward
JR & Son is a new-old establishment that conjures the past while deliciously disrupting expectations.
By Helen Rosner
Cactus Wren Is Doing Its Own Thing
A new restaurant from the chef duo Samuel Clonts and Raymond Trinh puts caviar in unpredictable places.
By Helen Rosner
What’s a Neighborhood Restaurant Without a Neighborhood?
Confidant is hoping to draw diners to the sprawling Brooklyn mall known as Industry City.
By Helen Rosner
Three Ice-Cream Sundaes for the Start of Summer
Most sundaes are satisfying, but only a select subset are truly special.
By Helen Rosner
Times Square’s Revolving Restaurant Comes Around Again
Can Danny Meyer make the View transcend its touristy gimmick?
By Helen Rosner
The Caribbean Restaurant Reinventing the Momofuku Empire
At Kabawa, the chef Paul Carmichael gets scholarly without sacrificing the fun.
By Helen Rosner
A Georgian Restaurant’s Mother of All Dumplings
Laliko, in the West Village, finds memorable ways to bring the Eastern European country’s cuisine to the world.
By Helen Rosner